🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.